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Sea level rise causes devastating effects on coastal habitats. For example, coastal erosion and saltwater intrusion are major threats for the Black Sea coasts. So, determining sea level changes in the...
Sea level rise causes devastating effects on coastal habitats. For example, coastal erosion and saltwater intrusion are major threats for the Black Sea coasts. So, determining sea level changes in the...
Interactions between steady non-uniform currents and gravity waves are generalized to include the case of a random gravity wave field. The Kitaigorodskii-Pierson-Moskowitz frequency spectrum is used a...
This analysis treats the transient inertia-gravity wave response of a shallow fluid to an impulsive addition of momentum. The Coriolis parameter varies with latitude, but Rossby waves are not consider...
The propagation of small-amplitude internal gravity waves through a finite layer of varying Brunt-Väisälä frequency is analyzed. A two-scale analysis is used and it is shown that the am...
The one-dimensional interaction of surface gravity waves with nondispersive internal waves is studied in a linear approximation by solving the equations of motion in a coordinate system moving with th...
Phillips' hypothesis concerning the equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated surface waves in deep water can be expressed either in the frequency form S(ω)ω−5 or the wavenumber form (...
Stokes mass transport by surface gravity waves is related to the often more interesting Lagrangian transport in a manner that is complicated by the earth's rotation. This paper discusses the condition...
The influence of the directional distribution of wave energy on the dispersion relation is calculated numerically using various directional wave spectrum models. The results indicate that the dispersi...
In a previous paper (Weber and Barrick, 1977), a generalization of Stokes’ perturbational technique permitted us to obtain solutions to higher orders for gravity-wave parameters for an arbitrary, two-...
A general hydrodynamic solution is derived for arbitrary gravity-wave fields on the ocean surface by extending Stokes' (1847) original perturbational analysis. The solution to the nonlinear equations ...
Knowledge of the kinematics of the flow beneath surface waves is vital for the design of offshore structures. Due to the technical of making pertinent measurement in storm conditions, knowledge of the...
Irregular grid finite-difference techniques lead to equations similar to those obtained using finite-element techniques. The simpler finite-difference equations offer the advantage of greater computat...
The finite-element scheme requires more computational expense because it is time-implicit and because it requires a smaller time step than the finite-difference scheme. Simulations of normal mode osci...
0bservations of vertical profiles of horizontal velocity made around the island of Bermuda during the FAME experiment reveal anomalies in the internal wave field associated with the island bathymetry....

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